My fondest greetings and salutations. I'm not sure where to begin this short upgrading on the beginning of 2009. Shall I write a monologue about the terrible economic situation and my (diminishing slowly) hope in the new administration, while the right wing continues to snipe and offer no solution to the troubles, which were created by the lack of responsibility by the previous government and the financial sector? And, where is the sense of honor and direction we had as a nation when I was a young man? But I am sure you have all had your fill of it and Gene and I have also. Even in light of that, we determined to go ahead with our Holiday. Heck, it was already all prepaid except for incidentals. I'd already spent a couple of weeks with Edith Klasen on a cruise ship while the initial economic collapse occurred. Could this period have been worse? It sure wasn’t pretty but our time away from it was wonderful.
Gene and I arranged the journey during the summer when we heard that Roger (Gene's younger brother) and his wife Marilyn were planning to take the Queen Mary 2 on the first segment of her 2009 Round the World Cruise. Departure was from Fort Lauderdale on January 13th to arrive for our disembarkation in Los Angles on February 10th. A 28 day voyage with 12 "Formal" nights, five costume Balls, five "Semi-Formal" and the rest Elegant casual. For two men that means a lot of ties, bow ties, and suits and dinner jackets. For the ladies was enough that Roger and Marilyn used the White Star Luggage service to ship two trunks direct to their room. So, please notice in the photos the spectacular dresses Marilyn purchased for the cruise, and the Gates and Peterson collection of new Bow Ties. You will find all the photos from the trip sorted into galleries at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates
[A photo group can be clicked through one at a time, or run as a slide show ( the best option) by selecting that menu option in the upper left area of the browser window. In regular viewing mode, when you can select a photo’s thumbnail and click, the larger screen size appears. You can browse through one at a time with the arrows. Below, as I mention each section, I give a direct link to that group.]
We decided to go with this Voyage because the ship spends a lot of days at Sea. Neither of us were particularly interested in the Ports of Call, except as a secondary benefit of staying a month aboard the most elegant Queen Mary. We also liked the fact that there are so many Formal nights on the ship and the sense of proper manners imposed by the dress code. The ship draws an older crowd who tend to be more respectful. This doesn't mean there weren't some of the bargain hunting fat pushy types on board, but we rarely saw them except if we decided to eat in the Kings Court Buffet, which we fondly referred to as "The Zoo" and where we ventured only a few times. The ship has a great gym and we were there every morning at 6:00 AM to work off the calories (45 minutes for Gene and 90 minutes for me) and in anticipation of the daily onslaught of excellent food. Days in Ports were our only days off from that regimen. I can't tell you how much we enjoy this Ship. The staff and crew are excellent. We met some wonderful people on board and with some of these we will remain in contact with as our lives proceed. Gene's brother and his wife exclaimed happily over their new discoveries each day within this magnificent vessel. As our constant dinner companions they were a wonderful couple to travel with. It is interesting that a few of the Staff remember us from the Transatlantic Crossings of last year. Internet access was dreadful and that bothered me at first but later I looked upon it as a blessing -- to be fully disconnected for a few weeks. How to summarize this journey without being too long winded? Difficult.
We arrived three days early in Fort Lauderdale since one cannot rely on American domestic air travel. Our flights were, surprisingly, on time and reasonably comfortable. My good friend from New York City, Richard Seff, was also visiting Florida and arranged dinners twice with local friends. Both served as perfect Bon Voyage send offs and I can't thank Richard, Tony and Paul enough. The images of Florida are at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates/FloridaDeparture#
Boarding was a mess due to immigration problems. We had, fortunately, arrived early and were lucky enough to be at the head of the lines and able to sit while waiting the hour or so required. I heard of people waiting 4 hours to board and we were a bit late departing. Our marvelous travel agent Jose Brito had Champagne and Canapés and Chocolate in the room for us to consume as we packed and settled into our home for the next 28 days. The room was more than adequate and our room steward, Bert, was very attentive. No complaints there. Being on the ship again forced me to rethink my photography goals. I took a lot of photos on the previous Transatlantic crossings and thought I wouldn't do much photography of the ship this Voyage. Wrong!! She was too beautiful to avoid taking more. The photo galleries give a representation of the ships inside, outside, view from her decks, and the art within. Gene was quite surprised at some of the art which he did not recognize. I made a point of walking all the stairs and nooks and crannies to try and capture those pieces not noticed before. Yet, there are still a lot not photographed because I couldn’t get light or an angle that worked. My camera is just a little handheld and I really wish I had brought lights and a tripod. Perhaps next time?
The Exteriors:
http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates/QM2ExteriorsWinter09#
The Interiors:
http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates/QM2InteriorsWinter09#
The Art Inside:
http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates/QM2InteriorArt#
We arrived in Grenada after two glorious days at sea. There is nothing glorious about Grenada! I can't figure out why Cunard brought an elegant ship like the Queen Mary 2 to such a non-exciting destination. Somebody suggested the Port charges were cheaper and the immigration easy. The town is very economically depressed and this island has obviously NOT been a tourist destination for very long. From some construction efforts I saw, it is trying to become one. Gene refused to go ashore and I have to admit there wasn't much to see. It was odd to be anchored all day after the days of constant motion. An interesting contrast to the ship but I was glad to be back “home” again.
http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates/GrenadaVirginIslands#
We crossed the Equator a few days later. I couldn't believe it. There were people standing at the rails expecting to see a line in the water where the Southern and Northern Oceans meet. Did they really expect to see a white dotted line? With five full days at sea before Rio de Janeiro, the ship begins to settle down. The days get rapidly longer as we head south into summer. The sun very hot directly overhead. We meet our fellow travelers in the American Express Mariners Club and the group leader Jim Winfrey. So much to see wandering around the decks. The weather turned sour for us and it was overcast and raining the day we arrived in Rio. The port immigration was (like Fort Lauderdale) a mess and we were delayed two hours getting off the ship. Those who elected to take the sightseeing tours of the City Overlooks and the Beaches saw nothing but clouds and rain. I took a tour to Petropolis, the original Imperial Capital where the King and Queen of Portugal fled during the Napoleonic Wars. It is now a resort destination during the summer months but don't think of it as you would a resort in the U.S. Once again I was struck by the contrast of the opulence of the ship and the poverty of the land within which we traveled. Of course it might have looked better in the sunshine, and the historical sights were of interest, but Brazil is very very poor except for the superrich top 1% who control all the oil and money. On the bus ride to and from Petropolis I saw acres and acres of slums, as far as the eye could see. It was a pleasure to get back to the ship.
http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates/RioDeJaneiro#
We boarded a new captain for the ship in Rio. Captain Baker disembarked to go home to be married and the Fleet Commodore, Bernard Warner, came on board to “captain” the Voyage until the Captain Baker‘s return in Hong Kong. What we found out a few days later, known to staff, was that the handsome Captain Baker went home to Scotland to marry the man he had lived with for over 20 years. I was delighted to hear that there are civilized countries on this planet that allow a fellow to be who he is and still hold down a responsible and respected position in their society. Very encouraging. I won’t go into a big discussion about my views, but I must admit I grow weary of the hatred for what I consider a normal life situation. I was (still am) so very encouraged to know not all societies treat a significant relationship between two men as something to hate.
We were late getting into Montevideo because of weather conditions and so, by the time we arrived all the dock, tour buses (about 30) were lined up and waiting. The bus drivers all started honking horns, the ship blew her horns and whistles, and everybody waved, cheered, clapped and hollered. It was a fun and uplifting welcome. Our tour was an all day affair (and free) through the Mariner's Club — an American Express travel agent perk. Gene even decided to get off the ship for this one. We'd met a couple from Santa Barbara, whom we'd joined for lunch a few times on board, and their company contributed to an interesting bus ride. We also had on board the lovely “Buffet Ladies,” so named because they insisted Gene was really Warren Buffet. Our tour took us up the coast to Punta del Este — the "French Riviera" of South America — a brand new city built on the shores of the Atlantic, where the Platt River emerges, and the home of famous artists and wealthy South Americans. While Montevideo was dry and arid and somewhat run down, this area is green, vibrant and sparkling. Quite a contrast. We ended our day trip with a farm tour and "typical" meal. The bus tour speaker was very funny and upbeat and enlightened us about the history and contrasts in Uruguay. University tuition is free for all students!! Our tour host, Jim Winfrey, was also lot of fun and little did we know he would pass away, while at Sea, a few days later.
http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates/Uraguay#hanging
After Uruguay, our next bit of excitement was cruising around Cape Horn (the southernmost tip of South America) and then up the Beagle Passage and through the Straits of Magellan. The Horn was overcast but the Seas easy. The Commodore held the ship steady just 1/2 mile off the point and then even did a 360 degree pirouette, after blowing the ships horn in memory of all the sailors who lost their lives attempting the Passage. The maps (at the end of the photos) show how the ship goes around the Horn and then back up the East side (backtracking a bit) of South America to be able to enter the Beagle Channel and then into the Straits of Magellan. The photos of the hanging glaciers are taken in the Beagle Channel, which can only be navigated in the Summer. The captain was going beyond Cunard's initial plans by taking us this route. They normally simply continue around the Horn and steam up the West Coast, through notoriously rough waters, towards Valparaiso, Chile. Commodore Warner felt he had to make up for our difficulties in Fort Lauderdale, and Rio, and the late docking in Uruguay and he managed to get permission for the detour. As the photos will show, we were all glad he did. Even most of the crew took breaks from their duties to sneak out on deck for a look.
http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates/TheHornAndBeaglePassage#
And there is a short video of one of the glacier’s waterfalls at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qgK0aXthwA
All this time our life aboard the ship was spectacular. Early mornings we arose for coffee (with very few other people about) and then joined the other "regulars" in the gym. As usual we struck up a few casual friendship there whom we encountered throughout the day. The ship is very large and there were times when I never saw anybody I recognized, and other times when we seemed to constantly run into people we'd met earlier. I had joined a Sports Decathlon Group of 30+ persons who played a variety of shipboard sports — Volleyball, Shuffleboard, Bean Bag Toss (Baggos), Table Tennis, Paddle Tennis and so forth. A fun bunch. Gene preferred the library for a good book and a daily Sudoku. The afternoons were filled with lounging around the pools, or taking more photos, or perhaps time in the Spa and a massage. Gene even joined in with the Duplicate Bridge game and came in 1st place one day. We met some very fine couples, a few single fellows and ladies, two lovely children (the only two on the cruise) and a certain Mr. Archie Dunlop, an extremely interesting 87 year old traveling alone, who dined at the table adjoining ours. I volunteered to photograph him in his “tux and dinner jackets” since he was traveling alone and didn’t have any photographs of himself “dressed up.” A very interesting fellow, whose stories of life in the British Secret Service in India in the 40s fascinated us all. Those photos are at:
[ http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates/Archiedunlop# ]
Our early dinner (6:00 PM) meant time for the Casino and a show afterwards and/or a walk on the decks before retiring to our room. An endless round of relaxation and peace. A constant flow of happy faces (although there were the exceptions, as in any crowd). Despite some passenger fatigue, I really didn't want to get off the ship in Los Angeles. Some of our new friends were set for the full 100+ day tour. At the start of the Voyage I didn't see how they could stand a Voyage for so long, but by the end of our journey I was sure they had the best arrangement. And, despite the 3000+ passengers and 1600+ crew and staff, there are still places on board where one can find solitude. Having gotten the knack of photographing towns, ships decks, art and interior rooms I felt I needed to begin to try to photograph people. Not as easy to do, capturing them unaware and still acting naturaly, without a long telephoto lens. In my wanderings the photos of our fellow travelers (both candid and posed) are at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates/PeopleAboard#
Chile’s oldest city occupies the shores of Valparaiso Bay – and the 42 hills surrounding it. Founded in 1536, Valparaiso is comprised of the old colonial city, built in a grid on the flatland, and the maze of residential districts sprawling across its hills. Cable cars ascend the city heights and the narrow hillside lanes are lined with pastel-colored Victorian houses. Valparaiso is also the gateway to Santiago, Chile’s capital, and the fertile Central Valley. With that as a teaser, one would jump with excitement to go, even though the day was overcast and threatened to remain so. I elected to avoid the two hour drive into Santiago and just go with a walking tour on my own. It is a fascinating, though seriously deteriorated, city. Once a major stop for trade of ships from the East Coast and Europe to San Francisco, with the building of the Panama Canal the city went into decline. Under the grime and decay one can see what was once an architecturally significant collection of Victorian, Colonial, Art Nouveau and Art Deco buildings and squares. The town is filled with stray dogs (a rather motley bunch at that) and everywhere are people with a blanket out on the sidewalk trying to make a few pesos selling anything possible. Yet, in the heart of the old town I found a band playing Tango music with a marvelous singer. Couples from the surrounding building dancing the Tango in the fountain square, while workers on their lunch break watched. The vibrant life still flowers in Valparaiso:
http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates/ValparaisoChile#
So much for a short synopsis — even eliminating so much of what we saw and did and who we met after 40 days of travels — and I'm trying to condense! I spent ten days sorting through the 3,000+ photos. And now I've spent three or four days writing this. Discouraging that the letter is getting this long, but I am reminded of my good friend Aelred. He is a retired priest, who now teaches English to our troops in foreign countries, and he writes once a year with his travel experiences. I always find his letters enlightening. Hopefully this letter will provide some of that for the reader, although I know my writing could never match Aelred's prose. Feel free to take a break and grab a cup of Joe. :-)
Our 5th Port, Lima, Peru, proved to be the favorite with Montevideo running a close second. Weather cooperated here also. Lima has no significant rainfall — ever. It can be overcast but our morning was slightly sunny for the tour. Roger, Marilyn, Gene, and I decided to take the Cunard half day Lima tour in the morning. This proved an excellent choice, with another very funny and enlightening bus guide and a good overview of the city. Although we heard the area surrounding central Lima is a vast slum filled with masses seeking work, the central city seems an oasis of happy contented peoples. The city is very clean, lacking any evidence of graffiti or trash. There is a lot of rebuilding and construction improvements and, as in Valparaiso, one can see the underlying older architecture everywhere. The difference is that within this city there is a significant revival and restoration going on. Our guide says this has been just within the last ten years. Lima is a place Gene and I both would consider for a longer visit. The dollar goes a long way there, and of course there is much more to see in Peru than just Lima.
http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates/LimaPeru#
And a short video of the band in the square at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URvkNj8qkY8
Acapulco, Mexico was our 6th Port and the last before disembarkation in Los Angeles. I approached the tour with a bit of sadness, to think the Voyage was to wind up soon. I decided to go with a boat tour of the bays, the houses and the cliff divers. I just wanted to stay on the water as a way to avoid thinking of the cruise coming to an end. Gene opted to stay on the ship again. Acapulco is an anchorage port. Transportation from ship to shore is via ship’s tender service, as it was in Grenada, and provided some of the good photos of the Queen Mary 2 at anchor. The tour was fun and my friends from Santa Monica, Colonel Axe and his wife, and the engaging group from Australia, with whom had also become good friends, were on the same tour. Seeing the town from the water gave one a good impression and the rich (Bill Gates, Placido Domingo, Sylvester Stallone, etc.) have built some amazing homes there. I'd consider this town again for a further visit, although I hear it is not quite as inviting from the street view. I was also surprised to find the city inside a bay with nearly no waves. I had the false impression that it lay on surf beaches.
http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates/Acapulco#
Our last few days on the ship we filled with farewell lunches and dinners. The suitcases had to come out and be filled to bursting again. I really didn’t want to go off. Even to today to think that beautiful ship and crew, and some of the friends we made, are continuing onward. Perhaps now leaving Australia and headed for Hong Kong and on to India and then the Mediterranean. Each day to awaken to a new place as the ship steams onward. Hunting for another interesting photo, the perfect deck chair to sit and read, the best pool for a bit of sun. Looking at the daily schedule each day to figure what events to attend. What lecture? Is there a movie in the theater to see? Who might we join for interesting talk at lunch? What afternoon sporting activity calls? Could there even be time to work in an afternoon nap in a quiet corner with a Sea Blanket by a windy deck side? But more than all I miss the views from the decks:
http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates/QM2OceansAndSkiesWinter09#
Los Angeles, California: "The City of Angels hovers between dream and reality." Our visit here was as weird as the city. Gene and I spent a very strange three days with an acquaintance we know, who has stayed as our guest in Reno. We thought it would be a good time in Laguna Beach but the fellow turns out to be suffering from an untreated bipolar manic condition. He never showed up at the dock to pick us up, despite numerous confirmation Emails and phone calls ahead of time. We only finally got him to meet us at a restaurant which was a $40 taxi ride away from the dock. Our plans to have lunch on the nearby original Queen Mary never materialized. He should be on some kind of calming medication. I really feel sorry for the man despite it. But, we were able to secretly laugh about it and survived the strange experience. During the two days, we did get in a bit of sight seeing and perhaps one day I'll write a short story just about those bizarre three days.
http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates/LagunaWelcomeBack#
Following that fiasco we were glad to be settled into the very nice Hyatt Suites Hotel in the middle of Palm Springs for four days. Our friends there, Rumi and John, were exemplary hosts, making sure we had transportation and the proper guidance for a visit that turned out to be too short. In the Palm Springs area we also have friends from Reno, who have their Winter homes there, and we were treated like royal guests by them also. Rodney Paul, a fellow we only knew through Internet chat and met there for the first time, took us with another interesting couple to a fine Valentines Day dinner. An amazing show of friendliness from strangers. There is a vibrant community in Palm Springs and we were impressed with the social network, the "mixers", and the quality of available Entertainment. The Judy Collins concert was great fun as was another installment of the Palm Spring "Follies." Although Gene wouldn't take the ride (he is afraid of heights) I enjoyed a spectacular ride on the Palm Springs Tram. We also made a short foray into Indian Canyon Park. Both of those places require a revisit to make a long hike. Now under consideration is leasing a place in Palm Springs for a few weeks (or months) next winter:
http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates/PalmSprings#
So finally on Tuesday, Feb. 17th we drove to Death Valley for one night at Stovepipe Wells and then finally home by late Wednesday. Beautiful skies and snow covered hills. Before reaching Reno, we stopped in Beatty Nevada to buy candy at the Death Valley Nut & Candy Co. Next door was a Casino and I suggested Gene go in and play for a while. He resisted the idea at first, but he does enjoy seeing what the various casinos have to offer. He came out 15 minutes later with money in his hand and said I could have it if I gave him back the $20 he'd started with. Being a good hearted fellow I said, "OK", and handed him a $20. I was pleasantly surprised when he handed me $218 -- he'd hit a Royal Flush!
http://picasaweb.google.com/eugenegates/SouthernDesertDriveHome#
Home again as I write. I have been told by Gene I am not allowed to discuss any travel considerations for a least the next two months. Considering the economy I'm not sure we will do much this summer. I do want to get back East for a short visit to see my family, Roger and Marilyn have a place near Seattle we are invited to visit, friends in Mendocino request us, and a few other options too. Wir werden sehen ! Just yesterday my portfolio of hard earned savings dropped (in just 8 hours) more than the entire cost of the 40 day Holiday. You can imagine which way I preferred the money to go!! In the meantime I hope I haven't bored you with these few words about our journey — of which too much has been left unsaid. Write and tell me of your lives. Be well.
Lawrence (and Gene)
